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Diamond Shapes (cuts)
Diamond shapes: an introduction to brilliant variety
When it comes to choosing the perfect diamond for your jewelry, shape plays a crucial role. Not only do stone shapes determine the design of your jewelry, but also its symbolism and wearability. Here, we discuss the various diamond shapes and considerations when choosing a stone shape.
Diamond shape trends: Classic shapes vs. modern cuts
The world of jewelry is constantly evolving, and trends in stone shapes are no exception. Although new cuts are rarely introduced and the round diamond has traditionally been the most chosen shape, there has been a shift in the popularity of different stone shapes over the years. With the introduction of lab-grown diamonds, shapes other than the brilliant-cut diamond have become more popular, as these are more affordable than natural diamonds. Besides the round diamond, or the brilliant-cut diamond, we have what are called fancy shapes. We will discuss these below.
Classic and traditional diamond shapes
Round, brilliant-cut diamond
This is the most well-known stone shape, characterized by its versatility, making it the most popular choice for engagement rings because it suits nearly every jewelry design. Additionally, the brilliant cut is considered the most optimal cut.
If the diamond is well-cut, its 57 or 58 facets ensure that light is captured in the most optimal way, giving the stone a beautiful sparkle, often referred to as the diamond's fire.
People sometimes use 'brilliant' as a synonym for diamond, which is not entirely accurate since a diamond can have other cuts. 'Brilliant' specifically refers to the brilliant-cut diamond.
Rosie Huntington-Whiteley was surprised by her partner Jason Statham with a stunning five-carat brilliant-cut diamond when he proposed to her.
DiamondsByMe offers an extensive collection of engagement rings with round diamonds.
If this cut appeals to you the most, take a look at the various designs. Are you curious about how the brilliant-cut diamond came about? Then read on for the history behind the most optimal cutting method.
Emerald-cut diamond
A glamorous diamond shape is the emerald-cut stone with its rectangular form, truncated pavilion, and corner points.
The 57 facets are arranged in steps, giving you that layered look when viewing the stone. Unlike the endless depths seen in a radiant-cut diamond, the emerald cut offers a beautiful, elegant stone shape. The quality of an emerald-cut diamond plays a significant role due to the cutting style, which makes every imperfection in the stone visible. Therefore, it's advised to choose at least a VS quality to ensure a beautifully clear stone.
A famous wearer of an emerald-cut diamond was the late Princess Grace, perhaps better known as movie star Grace Kelly, who wore a diamond of an impressive 10.5 carats. A more contemporary owner of an emerald-cut diamond is Beyoncé.
Interested in our models? Then take a look at our engagement rings with emerald diamonds.
Cushion-cut diamond
The cushion-cut diamond is sometimes mistaken for a brilliant-cut stone in passing. It's only upon a closer look that the difference becomes apparent.
However, it's more a variant of the princess cut than the brilliant cut. The large facets in the stone provide extra sparkle. The name of the shape says it all: the diamond is cut like a cushion, which, despite the hardness of the stone, gives it a soft appearance.
This stone shape is therefore perfectly suited for a romantic, vintage piece of jewelry. DiamondsByMe offers an extensive collection of engagement rings with cushion diamonds. Let yourself be surprised by the richness of this beautiful stone.
A famous wearer of a 3.0-carat cushion-cut diamond from Botswana is Meghan Markle.
Oval-cut diamond
The oval diamond with 57 facets exudes a beautiful timelessness and is suitable for all kinds of designs. Its cut is similar to that of the brilliant cut, but the elongated shape of the stone and the larger table make the oval diamond appear optically larger.
Additionally, its stretched shape makes the finger appear longer.
This stone shape is best showcased in elegant and traditional designs, yet it seeks something unique. Princess Catherine wears the engagement ring of her late mother-in-law, Lady Diana, which features a stunning oval-cut stone. This Lady Diana ring, or halo ring, is also part of DiamondsByMe's collection, where the oval stone is surrounded by a row of smaller diamonds that beautifully complete the centerpiece.
Even as a simple solitaire ring with an oval diamond as the focal point, this cut is an excellent choice. For instance, Blake Lively wears a beautiful oval diamond of approximately 12 carats, set in a simple setting with a thin band, making the diamond stand out even more.
If the oval diamond appeals to you, take a look at our engagement rings with oval diamonds.
Pear-shaped diamond
The elegance and refinement of the pear diamond cut are some of the reasons why it's so popular.
The pear shape is often set in vintage designs surrounded by smaller diamonds, adding a touch of elegance and sophistication with its unique shape and 58 facets.
For the pear-shaped stone, a very good quality of the cut is important to ensure a stunning sparkle. Since one side of the pear shape is a sharp angle, the stone is typically set in a setting that encloses the point, protecting it from breaking or splitting. Hence, the pear-shaped diamond is often seen in a halo setting, where the side stones frame the pear-shaped diamond and protect it.
The most famous pear-shaped diamond is found in the scepter that is part of the British Crown Jewels. This Cullinan diamond weighs a hefty 530 carats!
Curious about how DiamondsByMe incorporates the pear-shaped diamond into jewelry? Check out our collection of engagement rings with pear diamonds.
Modern diamond shapes
Princess cut diamond
With its square or rectangular shape and sharp corners, this diamond shape is excellently suited for modern jewelry with clean lines.
This form has 58 or 76 facets, providing beautiful sparkle and depth.
The princess cut appears optically larger than a brilliant cut but is generally more affordable because the cutting process removes less of the stone, leaving more carat weight. Although we've categorized this stone among modern diamond shapes, a princess-cut stone can also look stunning in a classic halo setting or a vintage design. As a solitary stone, the princess cut is an outstanding choice.
Curious about this versatile stone? Check out our engagement rings with princess diamonds.
Asscher cut diamond
When you see this square diamond shape with its 58 facets, it immediately conjures images of art deco-like designs. Art Deco is, of course, a style from the past, and the Asscher cut was at the height of its popularity in the 1920s. However, this style has been rediscovered and is currently trending again.
Partly due to its geometric look, the Asscher diamond will become increasingly popular. Therefore, we've included this cut among the modern cuts.
The Asscher cut was developed in 1902 by the Amsterdam diamond cutter Joseph Asscher. The Asscher cut consists of 58 facets and is octagonal from above. The corners are not pointed, which means there's less chance of the stone breaking.
The most famous Asscher cut diamond is a 33.19ct stone known as the Krupp diamond. Elizabeth Taylor was the proud owner of this stone, which was set in her engagement ring. A contemporary wearer of a 3.5 carat Asscher cut diamond is Pippa Middleton.
Check out our collection of engagement rings with Asscher diamonds here.
Trillion cut diamond
The trillion cut is another cutting style designed by the Asscher brothers. It's a similar type of cut to the Asscher cut but shaped into a triangular form. In 1962, this was registered by the Henry Meyer Diamond Company of New York. Currently, the patent has expired, and this name can be used for all triangular cuts. To ensure only the genuine trillion cut is used, we always provide an official GIA certificate with it.
Radiant cut diamond
At first glance, the radiant cut diamond may resemble an emerald or emerald-cut stone and can sometimes be confused with it. The shape initially seems the same.
However, the difference is unmistakable when you look into the stone. Due to its cutting style, the radiant diamond, with its 70 facets, appears dazzlingly deep. In terms of cutting style, it has more in common with the princess cut.
The most significant difference between the two is that the radiant diamond has rounded corners, making it slightly less vulnerable than the sharp corners of the princess cut. The radiant stone shape stands for glamour and boldness and has recently gained enormous popularity. The cutting method itself is one of the youngest. The radiant cut was invented only in 1976 by Henry Grossbard, a master diamond cutter who emigrated from Austria to the United States during World War II. After inventing the radiant cut, he founded the Radiant Cut Diamond Company, a business intended to market the radiant cutting style. And it was successful, as this beautiful cutting style is now indispensable.
Take a look at our engagement rings with radiant diamonds.
Heart-shaped diamond
Express your feelings with shapes… the heart shape is naturally the ultimate symbol of romance, while the diamond represents durability. Combine the two, and you have a perfect choice for expressing eternal love.
Although not as frequently chosen as a stone shape in jewelry, it is no less dazzling. A beautiful romantic stone with a unique brilliance. The heart as a stone shape has existed for several centuries.
The first record of it was mentioned in a letter from the Duke of Milan to Nicodemo in 1463. The heart cut has 59 facets and poses a real challenge for the diamond cutter. Not only does it require ensuring the most optimal brilliance of the diamond, but extra attention must also be paid to the symmetry, so that both sides of the heart have the same fullness and height.
Avril Lavigne was proposed to in Paris, the city of love, with a 14-carat heart-shaped diamond.
Interested in this ultimate symbol of love in a piece of jewelry? Then take a look at our engagement rings with heart diamonds.
Marquise cut diamond
A stone shape you don't often see but is very bold and striking is the marquise cut. The oval shape that tapers at both ends resembles a little boat.
Like the brilliant-cut stone, the marquise cut has 57 facets, which provides a beautiful brilliance. Its elongated shape is particularly suitable for wide and slender fingers, as it makes the finger appear optically longer. The marquise cut is exceptionally well-suited for designs with a halo or halo setting. The side stones complement the unique shape and make it sparkle even more beautifully. An additional point is that the tapering corners of the marquise cut are more vulnerable to damage. A halo or halo setting protects the stone with side stones.
One of the most famous wearers of a marquise diamond in her engagement ring was style icon Jackie Kennedy.
Factors to consider when choosing a stone shape
Hardness and durability of diamonds
One of the key factors to consider when selecting a stone shape is its hardness and durability. Some gemstones are known for their ability to withstand everyday wear and tear. The most notable among these is, of course, the diamond. The hardest gemstone, it can only be cut with another diamond. Its hardness, and consequently its durability, makes the diamond very popular as a gemstone in engagement rings, symbolizing timelessness. Because it's such a hard stone and thus less susceptible to damage, it's also seen as a sustainable gemstone, essentially lasting a very long time. However, each cut has its pros and cons. Stones like the princess cut, pear shape, and marquise are somewhat more vulnerable due to their sharp corners. With the pear shape and heart-shaped diamond, attention must be paid to the symmetry for optimal sparkle. And with the emerald cut (emerald-cut stone), as mentioned earlier, it's very important to choose a very good quality stone because any imperfection can be seen in this cutting.
When we delve deeper into the durability of diamonds, we can distinguish between natural and lab-grown diamonds. Lab-grown diamonds are cultivated in a laboratory, and since nature is less burdened than when mining for natural diamonds, lab-grown diamonds are increasingly chosen as the sustainable option. The quality of lab-grown diamonds is so high that there is no visible difference between natural and lab-grown diamonds. But, especially for larger stones, the price difference can be significant. Fancy shapes are more advantageous in terms of price and are therefore increasingly chosen.
Symbolism behind stone shapes
Addressing the symbolism behind a diamond, there isn't a specific symbolism tied to the cut, but there is for diamonds as gemstones. They stand for purity and everlasting love. For an extra romantic touch, you can, of course, choose the heart-shaped diamond.
The origin of the brilliant-cut diamond shape
The stone shapes we know didn't just appear out of nowhere. There was a whole development process leading up to them. Between 1400 and 1500, jewelers discovered that raw diamond had the potential to become a beautiful stone if properly worked. Realizing that the crystals in the raw diamond were octagonal, the first diamond cutting style was devised, namely a shape with eight facets, which today is also known as the point cut. These were the first steps towards uncovering the beauty of the diamond.
The cutters of that era did not remain idle, for in the years that followed, it was discovered that the point cut could be improved by forming a flat surface known as the table. This was achieved by sawing off a piece of the octagon.
To make the diamond more resistant to cracking during cutting, a culet was added, also known as the bottom of the stone. It is the smallest and lowest facet of the diamond.
The Flemish inventor and diamond cutter Lodewyk van Berken realized that a diamond had to be symmetrical for the most beautiful sparkle.
Diamond cutting became increasingly innovative, thanks to the knowledge that had been gained about diamond processing, but also because the tools used were becoming more modern.
In the 16th and 17th centuries, extra facets were added, and the Rosette cut with triangular facets was developed. Additionally, the Peruzzi cut was introduced, which had as many as 33 facets.
The current brilliant shape was ultimately created thanks to the innovative tools available in the 20th century, and through the mathematical study conducted by the Belgium-born engineer Marcel Tolkowsky.
As a member of a Jewish family of diamond cutters from Poland, he knew better than anyone how to work a diamond. In 1919, he developed a mathematical method and introduced the brilliant-cut diamond with 58 facets to the market. Today, approximately 75% of diamond jewelry is set with brilliant-cut diamonds.
Now that you know more about the different diamond cuts, we invite you to take a look at our website at the extensive collections we offer. The beauty is that every piece of jewelry on our website can be customized to your own wishes and budget.
Enjoy creating your piece of jewelry!